If that happens you might as well get a new barrel because the obstructed barrel is toast. The last thing you want on a precision rifle is a stuck barrel. Having a chronograph available is critical for working up subsonic loads. The key thing for picking powder is to pick something that will give you a fairly conisistant powder column. It's worked so well and takes up enough space to minimize any sloshing that I haven't played with anything else. Powder-The only powder I've worked with has been Trailboss. Primers-I used CCI large rifle primers just because I had a ton of them on hand. I've also used the Remington 180grn PSP's and Nosler 180grn Accubond's, getting the best results accuracy-wise with the Accubonds. The extra seating depth eats into the powder reservoir further reducing the ability for the powder to "slosh". BoatTails don't seem to work very well at lower velocities and the different bullet provides instant visual identification as to what type of round it is. Bullets-Choose something with a round nose and a flat base. The key is to be able to fill it up without much room to "slosh". Brass from Winchester or Hornady has a relatively large capacity as far as. This means using Federal GMM, Lapua or MilSurp brass that you've sorted by weight to remain consistant. Brass-Choose brass that has the lowest internal capacity. They are kind of fun to play with though and component selection is critical. They typically lack the same precision as full power loads (average about 1MOA), so making the same quality practice isn't very practical and I wouldn't hunt with one when I can do it more humanely with a full power round. Subsonic rounds are good for impressing friends and for doing demo's to show how quiet the suppressor can be, but that's about it. It is 1 in 10" as I expected to use both full-power and SS loads. You all so have to clean the barrel more often ,as the loads is more senticive for a dirty barrel Start at 11gr this will all most for sure be supersonic ,but it is better to start that way and later work the load down ,this way you will not end up with a bullet stuck in the barrel I have used n110(powder from Finland )burns clean under lower pressure ,and no need for filler If you have a 1in 10twist you might use 200smk but test without the can until you know for sure Its not the weight of the bullet that matters, its the lengthĪnd second what is the twist of your barrelĪ round nose can be heavy but still short enough to be stabilized I have pretty good expierience with suppressors, but not enough with reloading, and even the Sierra guys couldn't answer ths. If I neeed to move this over to ammo, then so be it. I have a custom made Mike Rock 5R barrel in a Remington action, trued & pillar bedded, with 1 in 10 twist, and Jewel Trigger. Can I get away with the 200, 210 or 220gr.? I just ordered 200 bullets, a hundred of the 180 grain SMK's because I knew they'd work, and then I also ordered some of the 180 grain round noses, because that is what TTi is loading. 308 case for subsonic reloads, and still have the bearing surface appropriately seated, whilst not compressing powder, having OAL issues or causing erratic flight? I will need the heavy bullet to kill feral hogs at my protein feeders. In their defense, they just built a 4500 square foot storefront, and put in CNC machines, etc.Ĭan anyone tell me just how big a bullet I can get in the. Yeah, it took a long time to get it, as their turn around is a little slow.but I think it was worth the wait. I believe they have improved their design recently, because this is definitely the most quite Jet I have ever heard. The sound? Just a firing pin, a little swoosh, and the TANG! sound of the bullet striking my sillouhete. I had some 180 grain Black Hills SMK subsonics I bought from my dealer, and I hurriedly shot 5 rounds at the ranch last week, just to check it out.
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